Period Jewellery

Period Jewellery – A Guide from TOD Jewels

At TOD Jewels Ltd, we curate and create fine period jewellery for collectors and private clients. This guide introduces the major eras—Georgian, Victorian, Art Nouveau, Edwardian, Art Deco and mid-century—highlighting hallmarks of design, materials and techniques that inform authenticity, condition and value. As Hatton Garden specialists, we also advise on care, restoration and sourcing.

Georgian 1714–1837

Georgian jewellery is entirely hand-made and now comparatively rare. Typical materials include high-carat gold and silver; diamonds and coloured gems are often foil-backed and closed-set to amplify a soft, candlelit brilliance. Designs favour naturalistic motifs—foliate scrolls, ribbons and baroque pearls. Prominent Georgian makers included Paul Storr, John Bridge of Rundell & Bridge, and Robert Garrard. Gem cuts are earlier and have fewer facets than modern stones (old mine, table and rose cuts). Original condition, untouched foils and completeness of components drive value.

Victorian 1837–1901

The Victorian era reflects rapid social change and global influence. Early Romantic pieces use yellow gold and sentimental motifs; the mid-century embraces archaeological revival with Etruscan granulation and Egyptian themes, including scarabs. Renowned jewellers such as Garrard, Elkington & Co., Carlo Giuliano and John Brogden produced exceptional examples. Following Prince Albert’s death, mourning jewellery in jet, onyx and black enamel dominated. By the 1880s–90s, colour returned with sapphires, peridots and amethysts, while South African discoveries sparked a surge in diamonds. Many jewels were yellow gold fronted with silver, which has since oxidised to a characteristic antique patina on star and crescent brooches.

Art Nouveau 1890–1910

Art Nouveau jewellery privileges artistry and organic line over symmetry: whiplash curves, irises, dragonflies and allegorical female forms. Famous designers include René Lalique, Georges Fouquet, Lucien Gaillard and Archibald Knox for Liberty & Co. Techniques include plique-à-jour and translucent enamels; materials range from horn to moonstone and opal. Condition of enamel and originality of fittings are key checks.

Edwardian 1901–1914

The Edwardian or Belle Époque period introduces platinum on a wide scale, enabling airy filigree and lace-like openwork. Diamonds and natural pearls dominate; mountings are refined and ultra-precise. Jewellers such as Cartier, Chaumet and Boucheron led fashion, with Garrard and Tiffany & Co. producing exquisite court and society pieces. Look for millegrain edges, knife-edge bars and micro-pierced details.

Art Deco 1920–1935

Art Deco jewellery embodies modernity: bold geometry, stepped forms and strong contrast. Houses such as Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Boucheron and Mauboussin defined the movement, while British firms like Hennell and Asprey produced exceptional custom work. Materials include platinum and white gold with diamonds, onyx, jade, coral and calibré-cut coloured stones. Originality of calibré cuts, symmetry and condition of bracelets, clips and Art Deco engagement rings are central to collectability.

1940s – Cocktail Period

Wartime scarcity redirected design towards gold, including rose and white alloys. Forms became bolder and more three-dimensional—scrolls, bows and volutes—culminating in the dramatic cocktail ring. Prominent jewellers included Boucheron, Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels. Weight, sculptural quality and original finishes are the main value drivers.

1950s and the Modern Era

Post-war optimism brought pastel palettes and playful textures. Jewellers combined turquoise, coral and diamonds with yellow and rose gold, echoing haute couture. Houses such as Bvlgari, Buccellati, Van Cleef & Arpels and Tiffany & Co. defined mid-century style. Later decades introduced innovations in casting and production while many maisons revisited earlier motifs.

Buying, Care and Sourcing

• Authenticity: Verify era-appropriate construction (e.g. closed-back Georgian settings, silver-fronted Victorian gold, platinum Edwardian filigree). Later alterations reduce value.
• Condition: Check for enamel losses, replaced stones and worn claws. Original boxes and documentation enhance collectability.
• Fit and wear: Period pieces can be gently adapted; our Hatton Garden craftsmen can resize sympathetically and advise on safe, regular wear.
• Gemstones: We source emeralds, sapphires, rubies and natural and fancy diamonds for restoration or complementary commissions, ensuring authenticity and provenance.

As experienced dealers in antique and pre-owned jewellery, TOD Jewels buys, sells and sources fine Georgian, Victorian, Edwardian, Art Nouveau and Art Deco jewellery. Private appointments are available in Hatton Garden to review selected pieces, discuss restoration, or commission bespoke work inspired by your favourite period.