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Home » Buying Guide

Buying Guide

Buying Guide: Choosing Fine Jewellery and Gemstones with TOD Jewels

When buying fine jewellery, choosing the right piece means more than selecting something beautiful — it is about craftsmanship, materials, provenance, and long-term value. As a third-generation Hatton Garden family jeweller, TOD Jewels Ltd combines nearly a century of expertise in bespoke engagement rings, custom-made fine jewellery, and loose gemstones such as emeralds, sapphires, rubies, and natural and fancy diamonds. This guide explains what to consider when purchasing fine jewellery and gemstones, whether commissioning a bespoke piece or buying ready-made.

1. Start with Purpose and Design

Before you buy, decide how you intend to wear or gift the piece. Engagement rings, wedding bands and anniversary jewellery each carry different symbolism. At TOD Jewels, every item is made to order, allowing you to choose every detail — from metal type and gemstone to setting style. Our Hatton Garden craftsmen can create anything from a pair of simple diamond stud earrings to a spectacular necklace or a bespoke engagement ring. Bringing reference images or discussing lifestyle and taste with our designers ensures the result is both elegant and practical.

2. Understanding Gemstones

Gemstones vary widely in quality and value. The most sought-after are emeralds, sapphires, rubies, and diamonds. At TOD Jewels, we source directly from trusted international cutters, ensuring authenticity and ethical provenance.

  • Diamonds: Graded by the “four Cs” — cut, colour, clarity and carat weight. Natural and fancy-coloured diamonds are prized for their rarity and brilliance.
  • Sapphires: Found in a range of hues — blue, pink, yellow and green — with colour consistency and transparency determining quality.
  • Emeralds: Admired for their deep green tones and natural inclusions, known as the gem’s “jardin”.
  • Rubies: Valued for their vivid red colour and durability, ideal for lifelong pieces.

We also offer other fine gemstones such as aquamarine and tanzanite, both popular for bespoke commissions.

3. Choosing Precious Metals

Your choice of metal affects both appearance and durability. Platinum has traditionally been regarded as the premium option for engagement rings due to its exceptional durability, natural white colour and heavier feel. Historically it commanded a higher price than white gold, but the continuing rise in the gold bullion market means that platinum is now often less expensive in finished jewellery, making it the preferred choice for many white metal designs.

18-carat gold remains the classic option, valued for its warmth and traditional appeal. It is available in yellow, white and rose tones and can be combined creatively with platinum for contrast or texture. For wedding bands, precious metal and diamond-set rings can be made to match or complement engagement rings. At TOD Jewels we use both traditional handcrafting and advanced CAD (computer-aided design) and 3D printing to ensure each ring is perfectly proportioned and comfortable for lifelong wear.

4. Craftsmanship and Setting

The longevity of fine jewellery depends on how well it is made. TOD Jewels combines traditional handcrafting techniques perfected by Tom O’Donoghue with modern CAD and 3D technology. Each piece is hand-finished in Hatton Garden by skilled craftsmen who ensure that every setting, polish and proportion meets the highest standards.

5. Buying Antique and Pre-Owned Jewellery

Fine vintage pieces offer history, individuality, and investment appeal. As experienced dealers in antique and pre-owned jewellery, TOD Jewels can help you find rare signed pieces by houses such as Cartier or Van Cleef & Arpels, or advise on selling and trading jewellery through our international network of buyers.

6. How Much Should You Spend on an Engagement Ring or Fine Jewellery?

One of the most common questions we are asked is, “How much should I spend on an engagement ring?” There are no fixed rules. A piece of fine jewellery should fit comfortably within your budget — never money you cannot afford to spend — but it should also reflect its significance and how often it will be worn. An engagement ring is intended to be worn every day for a lifetime, so quality and durability matter as much as appearance.

At TOD Jewels, we help clients set a clear budget first, then design around it. The key decision is how to balance the size of the diamond against the quality of the stones, design and craftsmanship. The size of the stone depends on what looks right on the finger as well as the personality and lifestyle of the wearer, and is a matter of personal preference. A well-cut stone with more life can be more eye-catching than a larger, poorer-quality diamond. Once a budget is agreed, we can size the stone accordingly and adjust quality aspects that are not easily visible to the naked eye, achieving the best possible result for the money you wish to spend.

7. Ethical and Informed Purchasing

All gemstones and precious metals used by TOD Jewels are responsibly sourced through long-standing partners. We provide complete information on origin, treatment, and grading, allowing clients to buy with confidence and clarity.

8. Appointments and Advice

Our service is by private appointment in Hatton Garden, ensuring dedicated time to discuss your needs, view stones and designs, and receive expert guidance. Whether commissioning a bespoke engagement ring, selecting gemstones, or redesigning family jewellery, TOD Jewels offers discretion, craftsmanship, and integrity built on more than ninety years of family experience.

Frequently Asked Questions About Buying Fine Jewellery

How much should I spend on an engagement ring?
There are no set rules. Spend only what feels comfortable for your circumstances. An engagement ring is worn daily for life, so quality and durability are worth prioritising if your budget allows. At TOD Jewels we help clients balance diamond size, quality, and design to achieve the best value within any budget.

Is platinum better than gold?
Platinum is naturally white, heavier, and more durable, traditionally considered a premium metal. However, due to rising gold bullion prices, platinum is now often less expensive in finished jewellery and is increasingly the first choice for white metal designs. Gold remains versatile, especially in yellow or rose tones.

What’s more important — diamond size or quality?
The size of the stone should suit the wearer’s hand, personality, and lifestyle. It is a matter of personal preference, but a well-cut stone with more life can appear more striking than a larger, lower-quality diamond. We guide clients on finding the balance that feels right.

Do you sell antique or second-hand jewellery?
Yes. TOD Jewels are trusted dealers in antique and pre-owned jewellery. We buy, sell, and source exceptional period pieces, including signed jewels from makers such as Cartier or Van Cleef & Arpels.

Can you design a piece around my own gemstone?
Certainly. We often create bespoke designs using clients’ own stones or heirloom pieces. Our craftsmen can assess, clean, and reset gemstones to create a new piece with fresh life and personal meaning.

How long does it take to make a piece of jewellery?
Depending on the design and the availability of materials, it can take from a few days to a few weeks to complete a piece. More intricate bespoke commissions may take longer, but we always agree timescales before work begins.

Can jewellery be redesigned or remodelled?
Yes. We regularly remodel outdated or inherited jewellery, reusing gemstones and metal to create a new design that suits the wearer’s taste while preserving its sentimental value.